* Craic (sounds like "crack") is a Gaelic word which doesn't have an exact English translation, but it basically means "fun". The Irish talk about "craic" a lot.
I have wanted to visit Ireland for as long as I can remember, and Melanie's grandmother was from Cork, so we were both excited as we planned a week long trip to Dublin. (And I'm happy to report that our visit to the emerald isle did NOT disappoint.)
We had originally hoped to fly into Cork, rent a car, and then visit several nearby cities, but it was cheaper and less hassle to fly into Dublin and use that as our home base for different day trips, so that's what we did.
The Royal Marine Hotel
After a bit of searching, Melanie stumbled across a wonderful hotel near the ocean that was half the price of the hotels we were looking at downtown. We couldn't believe our luck!
The Royal Marine Hotel opened its doors in 1865 and it has been a Dublin institution ever since
Rooms can be had for less than 100 euros per night!
The hotel was beautiful and our only real complaint was the exceptionally slow service in the bar and lounge. Well... that and the fact that our hallway looked like a scene from "The Shining". <scowl>
As I said on Facebook, if I had seen twin girls standing at the end of this hallway... bricks would have been shat
We woke up early one morning and the views out our window were breathtaking!
Sunrise in Dublin (taken from our balcony)
After checking into our room, Melanie and I took a leisurely stroll into town. Incidentally, this part of Dublin is called "Dun Laoghaire" and the immigration officer at the airport broke into giggles when we tried to pronounce it: "We're staying in duhn lah-oh-fay-eer???" He even called another person over and had us repeat it. <sigh> They finally told us that it's pronounced like this: "dun leery". Who knew?
Our First Irish Pub
After checking into our room it didn't take us long to find a traditional Irish pub!
Our first Irish pub was only a few blocks from our hotel
This was exactly the kind of place we were hoping to find -- and the food was delicious!
I was very skeptical, but everyone was right: Guinness in an Irish pub really DOES taste better!
As it got closer to noon, it was so much fun to watch the locals stream in for lunch. They didn't even have to order, they just sat down and a few minutes later the bartender brought out their food and drink; this was obviously a routine they had been doing regularly for years.
We enjoyed watching the locals gossip and tell stories; we tried not to be creepy eavesdroppers but the Irish are natural storytellers so it was hard not to listen. We garnered a unique insight into local life, and we cherished the opportunity.
Afternoon Tea at the Hotel
The next day we explored a bit and had afternoon tea at the hotel. Despite my ENORMOUS sweet tooth, the candy, pastries, cupcakes, and scones with clotted cream and jam, were too much for me. I almost made myself sick and I couldn't finish it all. That may have been a first!
This picture doesn't show the full tower of sugary goodness
Our Nine Hour Pub Crawl
Before leaving Paris, Melanie and I signed up for a nine hour "Mountain Pub Crawl" which took us out of the city and into the hills of County Wicklow. Our driver, Shane, was very knowledgeable and an excellent guide! Being in such a small group (there were only about ten of us) made the experience more intimate and fun. Shane even taught us a bunch of Irish folk songs, and our singing got louder and more boisterous as the night went on.
Our carriage for the evening
Here is a short video of Shane:
I took notes on each pub we visited and I thought you would enjoy reading them. These are basically unedited so... you've been warned:
1. The Blue Light
Our first pub was on a hill overlooking Dublin and the sea
My Notes:
Shane says that hundreds of years ago, at twilight, the owners of this pub would send young boys (on horseback) into town to "spy" on the Dublin customs office. When it closed they would race back up the hill and the owners would light a blue lantern. This was a signal to the less ethical captains (mostly smugglers and pirates) that it was okay to bring their goods ashore without paying the customs fees.
Having a delicious pint of Guinness here, and half a Hurler. It's great to chat with the locals. We love "Charlie". He looks like a cross between Santa Claus and Grizzly Adams. There's a picture of him on the wall from like 1975!
2. Johnnie Fox's
Situated in Glencullen on top of the Dublin mountains, this famous pub is said to be the highest in Ireland
I love how much "stuff" is jam packed into many of the Irish pubs
My Notes:
I love the interior of this pub. It feels so rustic and inviting! Melanie is drinking some Pale Ale and I hav a Smithwicks (they say it like this: "smiddicks"). We just tried each others drinks and switched them. On the way over here the other American lady fell asleep on the bus. We laughed. Too hard. Maybe I should have eaten before we did this...
3. Tochar House
This pub was fine, but there wasn't anything special or unique about it
My Notes:
Oh man, this pub was closed when we got here but we were just a little early . I am drinking another Guinnesss but Melanie really likes smithwicks so she is having another smitwicks.
4. Glenmalure Lodge
Fortunately, we got some dinner here. I was starting to feel a little woozy.
Everything was so green, and we loved this old bridge
My Notes:
we ordered some food at this pub. it is good too and we are having some more to dirnk. I got a irish coffee which is made with irish whisky and Melanie had the same thing ./ Shane is teaching us some Irish fok songs and some of them are really sad. Theres this one about a lady name molly malone who sold cockrels and mussels but she was a hooker at night and then she got a fever and died. Sad.
5. Phelan Licensed Grocer
Phelan is such a small town the grocery store doubles as a pub!
My Notes:
Shane says he wants to live in this little town becuase you go to the grorcery store and give them yuour shopping list and they get everything for you while you dink. And your wife wouldnt even know about it ! Haha soo awesome! Mabey I am drinking too much but i cant rmememmbr. My wife is so awesome I love her so much/ Shes like my bestf riend! Irishs whisky is good!! my legs feel good
6. Harbour Bar
Our final pub was the Harbour Bar, established in 1831
Melanie managed to find us seats right next to the musicians
Hear them sing:
My Notes:
WOW THIS PUB IS SUPER LOUD !@@#!! THE MUSIC IS REALLY GOOD THOUGH. I LOVE IRIISH FOLK MUSIC.. DID I SAY THAT ALREADDY ? I LOVE THAT MOLLY MALONE SONG BUT I'M SUPER SAD ABOUT IT BECAUZE SHE DIES OF A FEVER AND SHE HAD TO SELL MUSSELS AND COCKERELS AND HER BODY ! !! BUT THE MUSIC HEERE IS GREAT HERE. I THINK SHANE IS A LERPECHAUN HAHAHAHAHAHAHA
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